Kasa Smart 3 Way Switch HS210 KIT, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required, White,2 Count (Pack of 1)

Switches work as advertized – Some improvements needed to get to perfect -. Summary:The three ways HS201 kit replaced my existing HUBBELL switches.The HS201s are bulkier than conventional switches. You need to factor it into account if you are installing in a gang box crowded with wires and connectors. I expect that any smart switch will take more space, it is not specific to TP-Link.The TP-Link switches only function when a neutral is available. New and recent constructions may have a neutral laid out, missing with older buildings. Do not order the TP-Link smart switches if you don’t have a neutral available.The TP-Link switches have a thicker mounting bracket than that of my HUBBELL. I installed the HS201 in existing 4-Gang and 3-Gang boxes. As shown in the photos, my existing wallplates no longer provided a perfect fit between the switches and the wall. I called TP-Link CS, and they took note of the problem, and never provided any answer.PROS:works as expected;Central hub not required.”Kasa” app. takes you through the installation step by step, with DIY instruction;you need to create an account, one more email and password.Easy to pair with your Wifi network;Easy to configure to work with your existing Smart Home devices (Alexa, Google home, etc…)CONS:Switches are bulkier than conventional ones, it may be an issue in crowded gang boxes.Neutral is required for the system to work.Delivered with two single switch wallplates; the wallplates should not be included, but sold separately.TP-Link offers no 2-Gang, 3-Gang, 4-Gang wallplates to fit their switches.Customer Service was reachable, but did not follow up on my request: what wallplate should I use to have a perfect fit between the wall and a TP-Link HS201 switch. The original wallplate left a gap with the wall where the switch was installed.Be aware that if your installation deviates from standard, the Kasa app. will tell you to call support for assistance.Keep in mind that if you lose power, you will have to pair each and every TP-Link switch again! why couldn’t they use non volatile memory?The same goes if you change ISP.Not cheap!REVIEW:I have a staircase in my home, and three way switches at the top and bottom. This was the perfect testing ground for a set of Smart Switches.After a bit of research, I identified TP-Link as a good candidate, because they had a selection of products that would work in case I decided to add more components in my home.I renounced to my initial brand choice, because it required to have an extra hub to interface all the devices together.The installation did not go as smoothly as I expected, due to the larger size HS201s compared to conventional three way switches. My installation was done inside 4-gang and 3-gang boxes, with existing connectors and plenty of wires. The wires are not the flexible type, and it took me some time to bend them in a way that would allow the switch to fit. This also makes me question the possibility to add more switches. There is very limited room behind the HS201 and the back of the gang box. I suppose gang boxes manufacturer should start proposing deeper boxes to accommodate smart switches.Before you order any Smart switch, check the inside of your gang box, even if it is for a single switch.Before you order any Smart switch check your Wifi level close to where you will install. No Wifi, means you need to spend more money for repeaters. Not necessarily from TP-Link. There are other solutions.There are a few tools TP-Link advices to have before you begin, and I strongly recommend one of them; the contact less voltage detector, to ascertain you have effectively cut the power off.Identifying the wires require a little understanding of how a 3 way switch works, meaning load, 2 travelers, a ground. A conventional three way switch does not require a neutral. So you may have a little digging to do to find it.In my case, they did the paint job without covering the gang boxes, so all the wires inside were white! I had to remove the paint to be able to see the colors. You may also be in that situation. Do not hesitate to remove ALL the switches, and clean everything as required.In case of multiple switches in a gang, make sure ALL the switches are powerless. Do not assume because the one switch you are working on is powered off, that the others will necessarily be. Especially if you work with 3 way switches installed in multiple locations. This is where the contact-less voltage detector comes handy!!!I used Leviton wall plates to replace my originally installed one, which did not fit a mix of HUBBELL and TP-Link switches.If you want to install smart switches in a “shadow” area of your home, I recommend that you use a “mesh” system, rather than “repeaters or extenders”; Google, Linksys, Netgear, Samsung, eero propose equipment that eliminate any network shadow in your house. However, those are not cheap.I have tried the Linksys Velop and returned it. Each time you lose power, you need to reconfigure it.I live in an area where power outages are frequent. I am talking about losing power once every two months in average. This is why I am reluctant to equip my house with more TP-Link switches.

These Just Work. These 3 Way work. Now, I learned you don’t “have” to put each one on the same circuit, so if you are okay going against the TP Link recommendation, since they come in pairs, you can put 1 on a plug and have it work, and put the other one on a different plug and name it separately, and BAM you have two 3 way circuits that are on your Alexa control (and Kasa App control etc). I do have some “4 way” switches…..and they area PAIN. I thought they were 3 way, and one of them I got to work (don’t ask me how, ha) but the other I cannot. They have an extra wire, and it’s a huge pain in the rump. In general, it’s awesome though. I copied the review from the “smart plugs” as well, because all of the information is essentially the same, except for the install which for the switch you have to put in the wall switch (TURN OFF BREAKER< HA) and the plugs are just plug in and then the lamp or whatever goes in the plug. The switches you have to know how to wire in a replacement switch in the wall.I will say, these switches are much bigger than just a switch (inside the wall box). I've done other timer switch replacement, and that's the norm. The problem is a lot of these boxes have TONS of wiring stuffed into them. On a few, especially ones that have 3 or more switches in one long box, I've had to pull all of them and trim wires to make them fit. I didn't trim where they weren't workable, but I did get a ton of the excess removed.These plugs work….that’s it, they work. All of the TP Link smart home plugs and Switches work, and work flawlessly that I can see. The Kasa app is great, works flawlessly as well.I have 8 of these so far, and they are mixed in my home with wall switches (TP Link switch and 3 way switches) to all run with Kasa app that is TP link that then works with the Alexa Amazon Echo's throughout the home.These things are truly plug and play. You plug them in, open the Kasa App, and "add device" and bam, it's super easy to follow the directions and add to WiFi in the home. Then open Alexa App on the phone and all of these TP Link items are there in the Smart Home section. It just works, and works flawlessly.The entire system, I add "Routines and Scenes" and you can do all kinds of cool things. In the Alexa App the Routines, I can turn on lights and play the weather on the Echo and then have it start music. I can say "Alexa, turn on the Accent Lighting" and it turns OFF the ones that I want off and don't think are accent, and turns on the ones I say to turn on, and it is super easy.The Kasa app also has timers as much as you want. You can set "turn on" and the time, and create as many as you want, and turn off the same. My Christmas lights indoor and outdoor were all on these indoors and the plugs for outdoors are on switches, so bam those all worked on timers there. Same with my patio outdoor lights.The "only" glitch I've had in the months of using these……I switched Broadband Providers from Uverse to Spectrum. The new WiFi router, I set up the SSID to the exact same, same password, and it "should" have all just connected and never had a glitch. After 2 hours of weirdness, and trying to reset one of them, and get the TP Link to work…..I spent more time online and realized these are 2.4Ghz ONLY. I had set up the 5Ghz Wifi to be the original. I went in and made the 2.4G the old one, and BAM, everything worked FLAWLESSLY again. So, the 5Ghz wave I made the SSID-5G and all was right with the world once again, ha.My wife said this was silliness……she also said that when I got our first DVR 20 years ago……now the DVR is full of HGTV…..and she admits these things are great.

Works great for both three way dimmer and four way configurations. This smart switch comes with two sets of switches. Each set includes two wire nuts, two mounting screws, snap-on face plate, wire labeling stickers, and the switch itself. Install is relatively straightforward. I was able to install these in a 3 way dimmer switch configuration and a 3 way configuration. For both, I made sure to install the smart switch at the switch with the hot wire from the main home circuit, rather than any hot wires coming from other switches in the setup. If you install in any of the switches after this first switch then I believe it won’t work. Only one switch is needed – the other switches can stay dumb. This also works for a single pole switch (just wire one of the travellers).For the 3 way dimmer, the other switch is the dumb dimmer switch. It works fine after the install. For the 4 way switch, the intermediate switch is the four way and the last switch is another 3 way switch. I also didn’t touch these and they worked fine. To find which switch is the first switch, I voltage tested the common wire on the switch (usually has a black screw, bottom right side of the switch when facing it) while operating the switches. The common wire for the first switch will never go to zero (when measuring between it and ground or using a line tester). In my house, this first switch was also usually in the largest gang outlets or near areas with lots of wiring.If your old switch has the wires inserted into a hole in the switch rather than screwed on the side, you have to find a small paperclip and stick it in the even smaller hole next to it. Then you can pull the wire out.The neutral and ground wires in the smart switch are permanently fixed to the smart switch. They can be wired into any existing bundles of neutral (white) and ground (exposed copper) wires in the outlet box. My outlet box had these already bundled together and secured using a wire nut. I just unscrewed the wire nut and added the cables from the switch.The remaining line/hot wire (black) and traveller wire connections are screwed onto the smart switch. There are no wires coming off the smart switch itself for these. I do not believe it matters which traveller wire goes to which terminal. Typically the traveller wires will be bundled into one sheathed wire in the outlet box, while the line/hot wire will be separate. My traveller wires were colored red and black. The traveller wires are screwed onto the top of the switch, and the line wire to the right side.I found the smart switches to be a lot larger than the dumb switches, but they do just barely fit into the outlet box. I had to chip away some drywall compound from my outlet boxes to get them to fit. If your outlet box is metal, you might want to insulate the traveller wire terminals, as I think they could contact the metal box. Setup is very easy with the app. No QR codes to scan. Just go near the switch and follow the instructions in the app. It does not use Bluetooth either. It seems to search for a Wifi broadcast from the switch. For some of my switches I had trouble connecting the first time, but a retry, or reset of the switch (using a small button on the front of the switch) would allow it to work. Alexa integration is automatic once you link the Kasa phone app.The switch itself is not a toggle like a normal switch, but simply a clicky button. When off, a dim white ring lights up the switch. Below the switch are very small reset and restart buttons. Although I only have one switch per three way or four way setup, the app can still tell if my light is on or off.Finally, these have no delay. I have some Kasa smart plugs plugged into switched outlets. With these smart plugs, there is a slight delay when turning on the switch and waiting for the lights to come on. However, with the smart switches, there is no delay. I assume this is because the smart plugs actually lose power while the switch doesn’t. I am very happy with these switches. The setup and use is very easy. Install was very straightforward, even though I had not done any switch installs before. These are one of the cheapest smart switches on the market, but they perform excellently.

Works great for both three way dimmer and four way configurations. This smart switch comes with two sets of switches. Each set includes two wire nuts, two mounting screws, snap-on face plate, wire labeling stickers, and the switch itself. Install is relatively straightforward. I was able to install these in a 3 way dimmer switch configuration and a 3 way configuration. For both, I made sure to install the smart switch at the switch with the hot wire from the main home circuit, rather than any hot wires coming from other switches in the setup. If you install in any of the switches after this first switch then I believe it won’t work. Only one switch is needed – the other switches can stay dumb. This also works for a single pole switch (just wire one of the travellers).For the 3 way dimmer, the other switch is the dumb dimmer switch. It works fine after the install. For the 4 way switch, the intermediate switch is the four way and the last switch is another 3 way switch. I also didn’t touch these and they worked fine. To find which switch is the first switch, I voltage tested the common wire on the switch (usually has a black screw, bottom right side of the switch when facing it) while operating the switches. The common wire for the first switch will never go to zero (when measuring between it and ground or using a line tester). In my house, this first switch was also usually in the largest gang outlets or near areas with lots of wiring.If your old switch has the wires inserted into a hole in the switch rather than screwed on the side, you have to find a small paperclip and stick it in the even smaller hole next to it. Then you can pull the wire out.The neutral and ground wires in the smart switch are permanently fixed to the smart switch. They can be wired into any existing bundles of neutral (white) and ground (exposed copper) wires in the outlet box. My outlet box had these already bundled together and secured using a wire nut. I just unscrewed the wire nut and added the cables from the switch.The remaining line/hot wire (black) and traveller wire connections are screwed onto the smart switch. There are no wires coming off the smart switch itself for these. I do not believe it matters which traveller wire goes to which terminal. Typically the traveller wires will be bundled into one sheathed wire in the outlet box, while the line/hot wire will be separate. My traveller wires were colored red and black. The traveller wires are screwed onto the top of the switch, and the line wire to the right side.I found the smart switches to be a lot larger than the dumb switches, but they do just barely fit into the outlet box. I had to chip away some drywall compound from my outlet boxes to get them to fit. If your outlet box is metal, you might want to insulate the traveller wire terminals, as I think they could contact the metal box. Setup is very easy with the app. No QR codes to scan. Just go near the switch and follow the instructions in the app. It does not use Bluetooth either. It seems to search for a Wifi broadcast from the switch. For some of my switches I had trouble connecting the first time, but a retry, or reset of the switch (using a small button on the front of the switch) would allow it to work. Alexa integration is automatic once you link the Kasa phone app.The switch itself is not a toggle like a normal switch, but simply a clicky button. When off, a dim white ring lights up the switch. Below the switch are very small reset and restart buttons. Although I only have one switch per three way or four way setup, the app can still tell if my light is on or off.Finally, these have no delay. I have some Kasa smart plugs plugged into switched outlets. With these smart plugs, there is a slight delay when turning on the switch and waiting for the lights to come on. However, with the smart switches, there is no delay. I assume this is because the smart plugs actually lose power while the switch doesn’t. I am very happy with these switches. The setup and use is very easy. Install was very straightforward, even though I had not done any switch installs before. These are one of the cheapest smart switches on the market, but they perform excellently.

Llegó bastante rápido, vi un par de tutoriales y quedó configurado como necesitaba, lo instaló un electrico en ese aspecto no sé que tanto haya batallado 🤣

After one year still working great. I combined this product with my Kasa outdoor camera and then set an event that will turn on my outside house lights whenever the camera senses motion. So far this has worked great for the past year. I also set my Kasa smart plugs to turn on the inside table lamps if the camera senses motion too. I like how all the Kasa products integrate together.

Another fantastic switch to add to your smarthome.Great connectivity across platforms and appsI have added the switch to Google Home and Home Assistant and has been flauless since installing properly. The kasa app for installing the switch is definitely the best from several brands I have installed so far. The kasa app also allows a lot of intergration with other Kasa and Tapo devices and sensors.Easy to install, if directions are followed.To ensure an easy a fast install I highly recommend a non-contact voltage tester and around a 20min-60minute window when you can turn on/off open circuits without small hands or inconvenienced spouses present. FOLLOW EACH STEP FROM THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS ON THE APP. I have replaced a few of the 3 ways in my house already so I skipped the open circuit test as I thought I had corectly identified the source, load and traveller, however the load and traveller got mixed up on the satellite switch and I had rewire it from the start. If replacing, take as many pictures of the existing switch connections from multiple angles to help with rewiring. Also pay it forward by labelling the lines.Power monitoringNot really well advertised, but there are power monitoring sensors onboard, this is handy functionality especially for home assistant users looking to monitor power usage of homes and rooms.

The Only Switch I Use in My Smart Home. The Kasa Smart 3 Way Switch HS210 is the only smart switch I use in my smart home, and it’s been a great choice!Pros:Easy installation: With some basic electrician skills, the installation process is simple and straightforward.Easy to configure: Setting it up with my smart home network was quick and hassle-free.Reliable: This switch has been incredibly reliable, consistently working without any issues.Cons:No neutral jump wire included: It would have been helpful to have a neutral jump wire included in the package, but this is a minor drawback considering the overall quality.Conclusion:I will continue buying this switch for my smart home setup. It works seamlessly with Home Assistant home automation software and has proven to be a dependable addition to my system.

Reliable and Comprehensive App. Love the Kasa series. Good value for money and have used them for a few years all over the house. The hardware is reliable. App is easy to use and the timer based on sunset/sunrise is a great feature.

Great option to automate a 3 way switch. I used this to replace a much older KASA 3 way switch that started acting strangely. This was clearly a newer version as the wiring is reversed on the back. So I’m hopeful it lasts a long long time. It was easy to hook up. You only need 1 per double switch setup, meaning one of the existing 3 way switches in the system can stay. It works like a momentary switch for on and off of the lamp being controlled. Everything worked as expected.