Abatron Wood Restoration Kit – 24 Ounce – Includes LiquidWood Epoxy Resin Wood Hardener and WoodEpox Wood FIller
46
Adams Parker
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Product Features
- REPAIR DAMAGED WOOD: Permanently harden, regenerate, fill, replace, and waterproof damaged wood with this epoxy hardener and filler kit. It's great for historical restoration and can repair windowsills, frames, doors, trim, clapboards, furniture, and more.
- EASY TO USE: LiquidWood has a 30-45 minute pot life (working time) after mixing, and the treated wood hardens in just a few hours. WoodEpox can be mixed and applied by hand to wet LiquidWood and has a 20-30 minute pot life.
- GREENGUARD CERTIFIED: This product contains almost no VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and does not include water or solvents. It has a low odor and is a clean, safe wood repair solution for both the user and the environment.
- NO SHRINKING OR CRACKING: This kit creates structural, shrink-free repairs that mimic the original wood. These products bond to previously damaged substrates and are resistant to further damage by water, pests, and UV.
- ABATRON: We specialize in providing high-quality, easy-to-use, permanent building restoration products. Our items do not contain solvents and have virtually no VOCs. We are committed to offering safe products that deliver professional results.
- REPAIR DAMAGED WOOD: Permanently harden, regenerate, fill, replace, and waterproof damaged wood with this epoxy hardener and filler kit. It's great for historical restoration and can repair windowsills, frames, doors, trim, clapboards, furniture, and more.
- EASY TO USE: LiquidWood has a 30-45 minute pot life (working time) after mixing, and the treated wood hardens in just a few hours. WoodEpox can be mixed and applied by hand to wet LiquidWood and has a 20-30 minute pot life.
- GREENGUARD CERTIFIED: This product contains almost no VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and does not include water or solvents. It has a low odor and is a clean, safe wood repair solution for both the user and the environment.
- NO SHRINKING OR CRACKING: This kit creates structural, shrink-free repairs that mimic the original wood. These products bond to previously damaged substrates and are resistant to further damage by water, pests, and UV.
- ABATRON: We specialize in providing high-quality, easy-to-use, permanent building restoration products. Our items do not contain solvents and have virtually no VOCs. We are committed to offering safe products that deliver professional results.
Product Specifications
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Product Price History
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I swear this is the best product out there:) Saves one a lot of $. I had purchased this product from this seller November 22, 2016 but the ‘leave a review’ button is gone but I wanted to leave one now bc I just used the product:)So it took awhile for me to get the courage to do this project but today, I didn’t think about it I just did it. I looked at the online videos a few times, read the instructs a few times and then got started.I’m repairing a wood floor from 1946 (I know this is original bc I’ve taken out a couple of walls and the floor was underneath and already stained). This was a previous doorway before someone else took out that wall. When I bought the house there was carpet down so I didn’t know about it. Took out the carpet and HORRORS! I thought I would have to have the wood cut out and maybe put a perpendicular long piece in w supports under the floor etc. Research always gives more than one solution:) I found this and I knew I could do it and save a lot of $.When I got the Liquid Wood painted on I realized I didn’t know when to put the Woodepox in… wait or immediate? So… I took a chance (it’s Sunday), several ppl answered:). The seller gave me really good advice and the one following him in the post. 5-20 minutes said the seller and the other guy said he waited about an hour. I’d already waited about two hours but my stuff was soaked and just right… tacky to the touch. So I mixed up my play doh and started squeezing it into all the rotten crevices and smashed and smashed it in then leveled it off as best I could. I did all the holes, one after the other then went back and smoothed a bit with the alcohol. I poured some alcohol into a plastic cat food dish (I save these bc they are so great for painting on canvas and small jobs) and smoothed out the surface with the mud knife. It had already started getting firm but the alcohol made it pliable a bit again.When I painted on the Liquid Wood I used a paintbrush from my art set, a 1/2 inch across brush. Some of the crevices were under the wood so I couldn’t see how far back or big so I poured the liquid on top of the brush next to the hole and just dabbed everywhere the brush would go and then I wouldn’t waste the liquid trying to scoop it up into holes. This worked great. I coated everything about three times. I had mixed one ounce each of A and B of the liquid and had trouble using it all. There was more than enough even though I had a lot to cover. There’s lots left over too. I did use all the Woodepox though. I realized it was best to take smaller amounts of each, mix them together then add some more bc the color has to be one color when the mixing is done. With the larger amount it seemed to take forever to get it to be one color. I just put it out on a plastic grocery bag and put my feet at either end of the bag to hold it down. Some pieces would fall out of my ball of play doh and I would just dab it up with the ball in my hand. Super easy to work with. I used the gloves but they must have been super man’s:) Huge! I could have used my hair coloring gloves and the fit would be better. It did the job though. I’ll try and post some pics of my pitiful floor. I know this is extremely amateurish but I wish I’d seen something similar while I was trying to work up the courage to start. Had no idea except the directions on what to do and I did just fine:)
It works great, but takes a bit of work. This is two products that work very well together. Both products come in two parts, which you mix to activate the curing process.The liquid product really soaks into raw wood and creates solid material. The instructions ay you can brush onto rotten wood, but I didn’t try that. I carved out the really soft wood, then brushed on the preservative. It worked great. Don’t worry about being a bit thick.The putty product is amazingly light. You kneed the two components together and then supposedly spread into pace with a putty knife. In my experience, that did not work. The putty is too dry and crumbly, more like dry clay than creamy. I ended up smooshing into place by hand (with gloves) for the most part. It looked lumpy and lousy. But after it cured hard, it sanded and shaped very well.The final results is smooth and solid and easy to work. The bonding to the wood was great (maybe due to using the liquid first. The final results are great. But plan for some re-working and shaping after it cures.
Great product. Works as advertised. I actually enjoy making repairs using this stuff.
Good product, good delivery person, bad packaging plan. As far as I can tell, the product is good and my delivery person was also good however, the method packed was in a bubble wrap bag for a “soft box”.Contents were still usable, but they should rethink the way they pack to ship.
Absolutely the perfect solution. This was just the right amount for my project. Really solid, really easy, no mess.
Wow! Saved me the price of replacing a $1000 Casement window. I have a 25 year old Marvin metal clad casement window. It turns out lots of Marvin windows from that time frame have rotted out. My window was headed that way too. The bottom of the window frame was severely rotted and could not retain the window hardware. I contemplated trying to splice in a new piece of wood but then discovered this epoxy product. I squirted and brushed in the liquid epoxy and then applied the epoxy putty. I worked it in and squared it off as well as I could with a putty knife. Next day I sanded it. Next day I painted it. The epoxy does hold the screws for the window hardware but I was reluctant to tighten as much as I would in solid wood. This meant my bracket was slightly loose to the point where it would wiggle slightly when cranking the window in. To cure this, I epoxied the bracket to the painted epoxy paste and re-tightened the bracket. It seems quite solid now. With the entire rotted area replaced by epoxy and a fresh coat of exterior paint, I am hopeful to have many years of life with this repair.
Remold into hard wood. A great alternative to wood putty and caulk, seems to hold up especially when you mix a little liquid into the putty.
Fantastic product. It works like a dream. Easy to use, instructions are very detailed. For large project, like many rotted windows, I used a squirter ketchup bottle for liquid epoxy wood hardener, then the putty stuff to fill in holes. Easy to sand and paint.
It works great. When I brushed away the loose rotted wood on my window sash, it created a six inch gap and I thought this will be impossible. I watched a couple of Utube how to videos and proceeded. I shaped the sash using a block of wood. The next day, I sanded it with an electric sander. It is smooth and solid, I’m sure it will outlast the rest of the window. It is a little pricey for the amount you get. I used almost all of the wood epoxy, but I would definitely recommend!!! I’m an 83 year old women.
Excellent product. Easy to use and sand/shape after drying. Definitely worth the money. Will use again